Standing in the kitchen eating a spoonful of the caramel I made last night – Alice Waters The Art of Simple Food - straight out of the jar, wondering when Kevin is going to teach me how to make his amazingly delicious toffee, while the gingerbread warms in the oven and a pot of good black tea brews . . .
There is nothing quite like tea time, as in the four o’clock ritual.
I rarely have tea at four these days; my caffeine hours finish now at 8 or 9 AM; it’s a surprising thing but one becomes more sensitive with age. Or is it the whole evolutionary upswing and ecologically-challenged times we live in? But on a rare occasion, like today when it’s cold and stormy out and I am getting ready for a class when really I’d like to be taking a nap . . . it’ll fix you right up. What do they say? The cup that cheers . . .
Part of the fun when I created my tea business was to go shopping in England for lovely teacups. Then, back in Manhattan, I spent an afternoon on my knees in front of the Tea Books shelf at Barnes & Noble on 82nd & Broadway. I bought the whole shelf, just to view the competition. They were all pretty useless, except an irresistibly-illustrated Book of Tea published by Flammarion, and a really and truly excellent book called A Tea Lover’s Treasury by James Norwood Pratt, who lives out here on the left coast and has a Tea Society in San Francisco. I later met him at the Fancy Food Show and he beamed when I told him I had read his book “cover-to-cover.” I hope someone says that to me one day. Amongst other things, I learned about the despicable behavior of the British who started the Opium Wars as a strategy to steal the knowledge of how to grow tea from the Chinese; other approaches having failed. “Makes yer proud . . ” as they say in Yorkshire.
Speaking of Yorkshire, Betty’s Tea Rooms in Harrogate, where they serve Yorkshire Tea, won the Tea Council’s “Best Cup of Tea in Britain” award more than once – and I always served Yorkshire Tea and other Taylor’s of Harrogate teas at my tea parties, including an excellent decaffeinated black tea, something I never thought could exist.
Struggling back to my feet, I found the two very knowledgeable women in the Cookbooks department – Zone Two – and told them what I was up to. I said, “I want one really good book of cakes and desserts. Just one.” Without hesitation, they handed me Richard Sax Classic Home Desserts: A treasury of heirloom and contemporary recipes from around the world and stood there, regarding me decisively with their arms folded. Great choice! Thanks, Monica! Thanks, Alex!
Of course, I planned to cook my way through all the sections - a la Julie/Julia – but I got hung up on the beautiful cover where Almond Berry Shortcake looked just like a classic Devonshire Cream Tea – freshly-baked scones, split with summer ripe berries and clotted cream.
So I made that first, and made it again, making a seasonal winter adaption with an apple berry compote – it was a big hit, and I am still making those wonderful scones in various forms 12 years later.
The Shortcake turns out to be a very tender buttermilk scone dough, delicately flavored with almond and vanilla, that is very easy but needs handling quite differently from the traditional English currant scones that I also love to make.
Getting ready for the farmers market the other day, I had to make three kinds of scones and I was running out of time. There gleamed the KitchenAid mixer – my BMW – beckoning, very tempting. But I’ve made them in the mixer before, and they are just not good; it’s something about the gluten in the flour developing too much. So with a prayer to the time gods, I turned on the oven and got set up to make them by hand.
Baking is a breeze only when you have everything you need to hand. So I have dedicated part of my kitchen to that: one counter with a row of cupboards below and shelves above, where I can quickly reach for flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugars, essences, dried fruits, vanilla beans, chocolate, and all my bowls and spoons, cutters and brushes, measuring cups and jugs, baking trays and cake pans. I am far more likely to make a pie, a tart, a cake or scones knowing that everything is right there. And somehow it makes clean up much quicker, too.
Of course, the butter, the buttermilk and the eggs were in the fridge. I prefer the old-fashioned larder like we had at home in Herefordshire, where all these plus the milk and cream jugs, sat on a cool stone slab. We didn’t own a fridge and the milk was delivered in bottles from the farm every morning. I have a cool cupboard with a granite slab where I can keep good butter, eggs and cheese for most of the year here in Northern California – the emphasis being on “good” high quality, pastured farm eggs. Don’t try it with IFS (industrial food supply) factory-farmed eggs.
When I can get it, the sprouted spelt flour from Three Stone Hearth – made by a woman who grows the spelt (an older form of wheat that many people can tolerate better) harvests the grain, soaks and sprouts and dries and grinds it herself – is a fantastic alternative to unbleached wheat flour because you can substitute exact quantities. I have made scones with gluten-free flours – don’t bother unless you are actually celiac and dreaming of a scone – and with whole wheat and a mix of several flours, but for this recipe it’s pretty much unbleached all-purpose or sprouted spelt. You can buy spelt flour in the market, too, but I don’t find it as good and it is very expensive. The sprouted spelt is expensive but absolutely worth it.
So here goes with “Berry Shortcake with Buttermilk-Almond Biscuits” from Richard Sax Classic Home Desserts, given in my own style because, for me ice cream is NOT a substitute for cream, and I have made them with and without sugar and/or eggs, depending on the client’s preferences, and they still turn out perfect.
The standard recipe is followed by variations of my own – Savory Scones, Apple Ginger Scones and Currant Scones:
I use a heart-shaped cutter and find I can get 8 from a single recipe, about 15 from a double. And if you double the recipe, you will need a little less buttermilk.
You do not need a rolling pin, but you will use a sheet of wax paper and a baking sheet that is not black steel
SCONES:
2 1/4 cups all-purpose (or sprouted spelt) flour
1/2 cup plus 1 T. sugar (optional)
1 1/2 t. baking powder (Rumford’s is aluminum-free)
3/4 t. baking soda
1/4 t. salt
6 T. (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into pieces
2/3 – 1 c. buttermilk (or use equal parts yogurt and milk or water)
1 large egg yolk
1/2 t. pure vanilla extract
1/8 t. almond extract
Milk or cream for glaze
1/3 c. sliced almonds to decorate
FRUIT:
Seasonal fresh berries, picked over, hulled, sliced, with or without sugar, as you like.
Or:
Fruit Compote: Apples (Granny Smith’s), Pears & Berries – fresh or frozen, Maple Syrup or Organic Sugar (I always use 6 apples, 6 pears and about 24 ounces of berries – per 40 people at a party)
TO MAKE APPLE BERRY COMPOTE
Get the fruit straight into the saucepan to cook, or have a container of lemon water standing by to prevent them turning brown.
Peel, core and cut the apples into chunks. Add them to a pan over low heat.
Peel core and slice the pears. Add them to the apples.
Add just a little water if necessary. Keep on low so they don’t burn.
Prepare berries and add to cooked apples and pears at the end.
Sweeten with just a little maple syrup or sugar if you like.
Jar and refrigerate if not using immediately. Serve warm or at room temperature.
TO MAKE THE SCONES:
Pre-heat the oven to 425 degrees F.
Butter a baking sheet and do not use black steel.
Place flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large mixing bowl (or in a food processor) and stir or pulse briefly to combine the ingredients.
Add butter and pulse briefly or rub together with your hands until crumbly
Put 2/3 cup buttermilk in a bowl or jug; stir in the egg yolk and the vanilla and almond extracts.
Make a well in your butter flour mixture and stir in the buttermilk, or add to the processor and then turn the machine off.
Add a little more buttermilk, as needed, to form a slightly sticky but manageable dough.
Transfer the dough to a floured sheet of wax paper; do not over-handle.
Sprinkle the dough with flour.
Gently pat out the dough to an even thickness of about 3/4 inch.
Use a 3- or 3 1/3-inch round or heart-shaped cutter, dipping it into the flour, to cut the scones and transfer them to the buttered baking sheet.
Gather the scraps of dough, pat out again and make the remaining scones.
With your fingers or a pastry brush, coat the tops of the scones with a light film of milk or cream. Scatter the almonds over the tops; sprinkle with the remaining tablespoon of sugar.
(If you’re not ready to bake at this point, the scones can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated)
Bake the scones in a preheated 425 oven until pale golden, 11-14 minutes. I have found that to be amazingly accurate, but watch carefully as timings can vary. I usually alternate pans between the middle and top racks after 7 or 8 minutes.
HOW DO YOU KNOW THEY’RE DONE?
Tap the bottom of a scone – try not to burn yourself doing this. If it sounds hollow, they’re done.
Transfer the scones to a wire rack and cool for about 2 minutes. (I read recently that scones go on cooking in their own steam if you wrap them in clean tea towels at this stage. It seems to work well.)
Using a serrated knife and a gentle sawing motion, slice the scones horizontally in half and serve in a dessert bowl or plate with a fork. Load up the bottom half with fruit and a dollop of cream, then put the top back on.
They also freeze well.
CREAM
I’m from England; cream means just cream.
I buy the best I can find – usually Strauss – a local organic dairy farm – and whip it until it forms stiff peaks.
I do not add sugar or vanilla as I didn’t have that growing up and I prefer the contrast of the slightly sweet scone with the beautiful slightly tart flavors of the fruit and plain whipped cream.
I enjoy Devon Double Cream, Jersey Cream and Clotted Cream when I am in England but don’t think it’s worth paying “imported gourmet specialty” food prices here for something so simple when good local cream is available.
Be sure to avoid Bakers or Confectioners Cream, which is not the real thing and has preservatives and gelling agents and other nasty stuff added.
Variations on the Scone theme: SAVORY SCONES
Follow the recipe as above, but:
Leave out the vanilla and almond extracts and the sugar.
Add Hungarian Sweet Paprika and some herbs if you like, to the flour mixture. Add about half a red pepper, diced, and 2 or 3 green onions/scallions, diced, and grated parmesan cheese to the butter/flour mixture before adding the buttermilk.
I decorate Savory Scones with grated parmesan and eat them with butter and cheese. Also great alongside a soup or stew, or in a buffet bread basket with cheeses, meats and vegetables.
APPLE GINGER SCONES
Follow the recipe as above, but:
I definitely include some organic cane sugar in this one for a little crunchy top.
I love ginger in any form; for this you can cut up some crystallized ginger and add it to the butter/flour mixture with some small chunks of peeled apple.
Eat these with butter.
CURRANT SCONES
You can also use this recipe to make the traditional favorite – adding a handful of currants (not raisins or sultanas) to the butter/flour mixture.
Traditionally eaten with jam (good preserves) and cream – or just good butter and jam.
WHAT I LIKE ABOUT THESE SCONES is that they are easy, delicious, and freeze well. Scones are best eaten fresh, but these do well toasted or warmed up in a toaster oven the next day – or whenever they come out of the freezer.
MISTAKES I HAVE MADE – adding too much almond extract ruins them; be so careful measuring that out. And burning them is not good. It’s easy if you have a timer; mine broke so I am watching the clock.
I only want to eat them myself very occasionally – flour, butter, baking powder – but your neighbors and friends and colleagues will love you when you show up with these!
By the way, we sold out at the Farmers Market!